1981. A loop to East Berlin via Dresden with a college class. Some snippets from my journal at the time (I was twenty years old, and, after the Soviets occupied Afghanistan, had been required to register for Selective Service in 1980):Expecting smart jackbooted submachine gun carrying helmeted border guards, I was underwhelmed by the bureaucratic border police who processed us. . . Driving through the night was a little eerie, behind “enemy” lines. But there was no sign of Soviet presence. There was very little sign of anything. It’s much less populated than West Germany, perhaps because so many fled before the Wall was built. . .
Paper and other goods are of ersatz quality, markedly inferior to similar Western materials. Nevertheless, I was surprised to see how well-dressed and fed everyone is, being led to believe something different by our own media and government propaganda. Their propaganda I expected, but to find out we've been badly distorting reality is rather surprising. Too naive.
Our East German guides, Gunther X and Anita Kretschmar, were quite an experience. At first they were stiffly cautious, probing for our reactions to what they said. Within an hour they opened up and spoke to us as friends. Gunther was a man harried by the state bureaucracy. Anita was a young artist who felt stifled by that same bureaucracy. It appears that the East German system thematically is more like Huxley’s Brave New World than Orwell’s 1984. Materially the East Germans do well by global standards . . . In return for self-disciplined caution in actions and words, the people are rewarded with material goods. . .
It was raining when we toured the Checkpoint Charlie Museum this morning . . . Some of the inventions and means of escaping from the Iron Curtain were really ingenious. The resultant countermeasures just as ingeniously added new diabolical strength to the Wall.
The saddest thing about the Iron Curtain countries, and indeed all centrally governed countries, is the people’s lack of individual freedom of choice. Freedom of choice is not in my opinion an inherent “right” of anyone’s, as our constitution suggests, but it is a very nice luxury to have.
Today's Rune: The Self.








